The Basic Difference
All fabrics are either knits or wovens, and the distinction shapes everything about a garment. Knit fabrics are made by interlocking loops of yarn — like hand knitting, but industrial. Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles on a loom. This single structural difference explains why a T-shirt stretches and a dress shirt does not.
Knit Fabrics
Knits stretch naturally, even without elastane, because the looped structure gives way under tension and recovers. They are comfortable, forgiving of fit, and generally quicker to sew. Common knits include:
- Jersey — the classic T-shirt fabric; lightweight with natural stretch.
- Interlock — a double-knit that is smoother and more stable than jersey.
- Rib — highly elastic; used for cuffs, collars, and fitted styles.
- Fleece — brushed knit for hoodies, joggers, and sweatshirts.
- Piqué — the textured knit used for polo shirts.
Woven Fabrics
Wovens have little natural stretch (unless elastane is added) and hold a crisp, structured shape. They drape cleanly and press sharp creases, which is why they dominate shirts, trousers, and outerwear. Common wovens include poplin, oxford, twill, denim, canvas, and flannel — each with a distinct look and hand feel.
Choosing for Your Product
- Choose knits for comfort-driven products: T-shirts, activewear, loungewear, and anything worn close to the body during movement.
- Choose wovens for structured products: shirts, trousers, jackets, uniforms, and anything that needs to hold a sharp silhouette.
- Consider your customer’s climate — lightweight knits suit heat; dense wovens suit cooler seasons and workwear.
Manufacturing Implications
Knits and wovens are cut and sewn on different machinery by different specialists. Knit factories run high-speed overlock and flatlock machines; woven factories run single-needle lockstitch lines with pressing at every stage. When choosing a manufacturer, confirm they specialise in your fabric type — a factory that excels at T-shirts may not be the right partner for tailored shirts, and vice versa.