The hoodie is a wardrobe staple across every market, which makes it one of the most competitive garments to manufacture well. Small differences in fleece quality, hood construction and finishing separate premium hoodies from forgettable ones. Here is what to specify when developing custom hoodies.
Choosing the fleece
The fabric defines the hoodie. Main options include:
- Brushed fleece: soft raised interior, warm and cozy — the classic hoodie fabric, usually 280–400 GSM.
- French terry: looped interior, lighter and breathable — ideal for spring collections.
- Loopback (loopwheel): unbrushed loops inside; a vintage-look fabric prized in premium streetwear.
Cotton-polyester blends dominate because polyester improves shape retention and print vibrancy, while pure cotton fleece serves the premium organic segment.
Hood, pocket and trim styles
Hood options range from the classic two-panel lined hood to crossover and scuba styles. Kangaroo pockets are standard for pullovers; full-zip versions use side seam pockets. Drawcords come in flat or round profiles with metal or plastic tips — specify tip quality, since cheap tips are a common failure point. Ribbed cuffs and hem should recover fully after stretching.
Branding: print or embroidery
Screen printing suits bold chest graphics; puff and high-density prints add texture for streetwear designs. Embroidery gives a premium finish for small left-chest logos. For all-over designs, cut-and-sew sublimation on polyester fleece is the answer.
Quality checkpoints
Check fleece for pilling after wash tests, confirm drawcord and zipper function on every size, verify pocket alignment, and measure shrinkage — fleece can shrink significantly if the fabric was not properly compacted before cutting.
Garment wash and dye effects
Many streetwear hoodies go through garment dyeing or enzyme washing for a soft, lived-in feel. Garment dye gives rich, slightly uneven color that piece-dyed fabric cannot match, but it adds shrinkage variables that must be built into the pattern. Always approve the wash standard on a physical sample before bulk washing begins.